С мануалами туго.
Свой разбирал так - открутил основную камеру, опустил её до конца.
Там внутри нужен специальный съёмник на 31мм, но можно подлезть разводным ключём среднего размера (окуратно, можно шток покоцать).
Дальше всё просто, откручиваешь крутилку объёма и давишь на аморт чтобы вытолкнуть полшень IPF.
Собирать геморней, нужно сначала налить масло, потом надеть обрезок бутылки на расширительный бачёк.
Залить масло в обрезок бутылки, потом положить туда поршень, что бы утонул. Вставить его после в бачёк на пару сантиметров.
Лишнее масло, прикрыв отверстие демпфера пальцем, сливаем.
Потом одеваем корпус камеры на корпус демпфера.
Корпус камеры будет немного выше копуса демпфера.
Важно чтобы корпус был не слишком высоко относительно демпфера.
Иначе масло, при сборке, просочится в "негативную" камеру.
(По факту её там нет, но тогда мало не даст аморту раскрыться на весь размер)
Выставляем глубину IPF, давя на него пальцем.
Подливаем мало в основную камеру и вставляем поршень, аккуратно давя (блокировка отключена).
Закручиваем основную гайку.
Сливаем масло из основной камеры.
Закрываем корпус.
Закручиваем регилировку объёма.
Без давления в бачке аморт не сжимать!
Качаем бачёк, потом основную камеру.
Естественно все ругулировки в момент сборки в крайнем открытом положении.
Масло в основную камеру 3-5 мл.
Ещё одна хитрость.
Когда впихиваешь основной поршень, IPF может сдвинуться.
Для предотвращения этого кладём внутрь бачка стопку монет нужной высоты и закручиваем регулировку объёма.
(потом не забудьте вытащить
)
Вот советы с забугорного сайта:
Alright, I thought I would bump this thread with some information that I've gathered over the past year or so. I've now completely rebuilt my Evolver ISX-6 twice and have changed the oil and reshimmed the compression and rebound. So, here is some information that might help others if you need to rebuild this shock. All info is straight from Colin at Manitou tech and also my experience rebuilding the shock:
Stock Oil: Motrex 5wt (22.6 / 5.6 cSt) Pretty heavy oil for 5wt, so be sure to compare cSt values before using a different brand.
Stock Shim Setup on Compression side of piston (in mm; starting with shim resting on piston face and working away from piston face): 21, 21, 21 all 0.10 mm thickness
Stock Shim Setup on Rebound side of piston (in mm; starting with shim resting on piston face and working away from piston face): 16, 16, 13 all 0.15 mm thickness
IFP Depths*: 2" stroke = 38mm IFP depth, 2.25" stroke = 40mm IFP depth, 2.5" stroke = 42mm IFP depth, 2.75" stroke = 43mm IFP depth, 3" stroke = 45mm IFP depth, 3.5" stroke = 48mm IFP depth. *Note- IFP Positioning tool shown in the Service Guide is no longer available from Manitou since Hayes purchase. You have to manually set IFP depth using measurements above.
Special Tools required: Some of the tools you can improvise if you're creative, but one tool that is absolutely necessary is the Special Socket referenced in step #5 of the Service Guide. The service guide doesn't mention the Manitou part number, but it is: 85-4418.
Improvised Tools & Rebuild Notes:
* Step 4 (clamping damper shaft) - You really can't get away without having proper shaft clamps. I happened to have some from an old Rock Shox rebuild kit. The clamps should be able to accommodate a 12.5mm shock shaft. I think mine are made of brass?
* Step #10 of Service Guide (removing IFP piston from reservoir) - I used air compressor with air nozzle gun attachment. I wrapped foam tape around air nozzle to make it fit snug inside the main damper body, then shot some air into the damper body which shot the IFP out of the reservoir (cover reservoir with rag so IFP doesn't shoot out and injure).
* Step 12 (remove intrinsic damping assembly) - I didn't bother to remove the Intrinsic damping assembly, mainly because I didn't have a 0.9mm allen wrench (super small). It didn't affect the bleeding process though.
* Step 14 (removing nut that holds the shims onto the piston shaft) - The service manual doesn't indicate the wrench size, but it is a 5/8" wrench.
* Step 18 (pushing oil through damper body to bleed Intrinsic damper) - I didn't have the IFP removal tool, so I just used a wooden dowel with a cardboard circular disc covered with a plastic baggie to push down into the damper body and create some pressure to force a bit of oil through the Intrinsic damper in the reservoir body.
* Step 19 (bleed bowl) - I didn't have the bleed bowl tool, so I made my own using a cut-up plastic bottle duct taped around the outside of the reservoir body. You just need something that extends above the end of the reservoir body slightly so that you can fill it with oil and push the IFP into the reservoir without air getting underneath the IFP when you push it down in.
* Step 20 (setting IFP depth) - This was actually one of the hardest parts. Without the IFP tool, it was really difficult to push the IFP down into the reservoir body. I wound up using a wooden dowel that I pushed down into the reservoir and then a Irwin clamp that helped to squeeze / push the wooden dowel into the IFP.
Other Notes: The bottom-out adjuster works in a pretty interesting way. The reservoir contains air from the IFP piston down to about 3/4" from the end of the reservoir. This is the air pressure that you set on the end of the reservoir. The adjustable bottom-out knob turns a disc inside (located about 3/4" from the end of the reservoir) which has a series holes drilled into it. There is a smaller 3/4" air chamber below this disc. Number 1 on the bottom-out adjuster corresponds with more holes open on the disc and number 4 doesn't have any holes (or maybe 1 hole). So as the shock compresses, the air pressure builds up in the larger IFP chamber and then passes through the holes on the disc and into the smaller bottom-out air chamber. If you have the adjuster set at #4, then you have effectively closed off the bottom-out air chamber and only the main IFP air chamber comes into play (more progressive). With the adjuster at #1, air can easily pass through the disc into the bottom-out air chamber and your reservoir air chamber is now effectively 3/4" larger.
Rebuild Seal Kit Part Number (Manitou #): 83-2708 (kit includes all o-rings and shaft seals. Use if your shock starts leaking oil past the main dust wiper; requires full rebuild to install).
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к великому сожалению. ХЪотя СПВ со старых воздушных амортов подходит на новые. Я ставил СПВ со старого воздушного свингера на новый, и все там отлично работало. ТОлько пришлось винтик точить, который поршень крепит